Casa Parsons and a history of Gaula
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Casa Parsons is situated in Sítio do Salão, within the lower parish of Gaula. The house was designed by a local architect for a resident professional gentleman, in a rustic and "open plan" style and was constructed some 22 years ago. On two levels, the guest accommodation and public areas occupy the ground floor and the owners’ accommodation is privately contained on the upper floor. The Casa enjoys stunning panoramic sea views and is set in a rural location, close to the village amenities of Gaula. The Parish of Gaula, situated on the south coast of Madeira above Santa Cruz, presents a marvellous panorama, mainly maritime, over the coastal fringes, the Deserta Islands and Porto Santo. Dating back to 1509, the Parish is divided between two Patron Saints. Nossa Senhora da Graça of the upper, northern parish and Nossa Senhora da Luz of the lower, southern parish.
Casa Parsons is located close to the Gaulish mother church of Nossa Senhora da Luz and as such we are able to fully enjoy the numerous religious festivals that take place throughout the year. Starting at Easter time and throughout the summer, the streets around the church square are often covered in carpets of flowers (donated by local home owners) and filled with decorations, coloured lights and flags – laurel and eucalyptus branches add to the atmosphere. The traditional music and local folklore group of Gaula (created in 1978) together with local food and drink, bring even more excitement to the colourful streets and also act to preserve the villages history thereby sealing the continued good faith and devotion of the people.
Our Madeira neighbours exhibit the genuine warmth and friendliness that the Island is renowned for, particularly so in Gaula, and virtually unseen anywhere else in the world.
When exploring Gaula on foot you can still see the many watercourses that lead to the public fresh water springs, washing places and water mills. These signs of past and present life portray the availability and importance of water to the village. The old public springs of Sítio dos Furtados and Lages, splendid in their hand carved stone and tiled design are strongly linked with the religious festivals of the Church of Nossa Senhora da Luz.
The original processional cross from the antique mother church, dating from the 16th century, is now displayed at the "Museu de Arte Sacra do Funchal".
Further local archaeological interest is found just across the small valley from Casa Parsons, at Sítio da Torre with the remains of the "Quinta de Nossa Senhora da Assunção" dating from the first half of the 17th century. The squared stones of the construction give an insight into the elevated social status of its early inhabitants.
Many of the traditional village stone houses have water mills on the ground floor; these were used to grind the corn and maize grown locally. This was then used to make the traditional "bolo do caco" – bread cooked on a stone – and maize cake, unique to Gaula. You will also notice the raised terraces (Poios) of level fertile soil held up by dry stonewalls; these are plentiful and still farmed today in the traditional way. The Maize, corn, bean, potato and sweet potatoes grown are planted amongst the many herbs, flowers, grape vines and laurel covering the area. Dotted amongst the terraces are the "Corals" and little barns (with "A" frame roofs) used to shelter the caprin and bovine livestock, whose meat and milk are still used locally. The abundance of flowers provides a natural habitat for the bee and this natural resource is used to provide honey for locally made cakes and drinks – the drink "Poncha" (made from brandy, local lemon juice and honey) is especially good for colds, The use of natural resources continues with the art of weaving from cosier and cane branches. Heath brooms and basket work are still weaved locally and used today, along with the hand carved wooden spoons and wooden "mexilho" poncha mixers, unique to the parish.
The village has a new "house of the people". The "Casa do Povo" (village hall) combining and encouraging a local market for people to buy and sell their agricultural produce. The Mercado do Agricola is open during the weekends with Bolo do caco and chicken, cooked over wood available in the church square. Many community activities also take place in the Casa do Povo during weekdays and in the evening.
Gaula has its own indigenous Laurissa forest with many endemic plants and birds. These include canaries, European finches, wagtails and the protected Ring Dove species. Kestrels circle overhead the valleys, drifting down to the wild olive covered lower slopes, often seen to be chasing away the unwanted intentions of the larger Buzzard.
In the summer months these birds of prey exploit the rising thermals and drift lazily around the clear skies. Night time brings the little bats out to feed accompanied by the Owls, often heard calling across the valley.
The dawn chorus of the smaller birds heralds morning time and in particular, the melodious call of the blackbird fills the air. Wall lizards, which are endemic to Madeira, dart between rocks and stonewalls, basking in the daytime sun, they are frequently seen and are totally harmless.
To walk around Gaula is undoubtedly the best way to be in contact with nature and to meet the local human and animal population. The local paths and steps (veradas) which criss cross the countryside, together with the justly world famous water courses (levadas, with footpaths alongside) that meander through the valleys, offer a unique opportunity to enjoy the truly special landscapes, flowers, bird life and people found here.
Jon Parsons
Based on a Parish of Gaula council “Touristic Guide” September 2000. Original Text in Portuguese by Élvio Sousa and Helder Spínola. English version, thanks and additional material by J L Parsons. Deposito Legal: 154656/00
See what regular contributors get … free advertising! Thanks a lot Jon, I will be over for my ‘free stay’ very soon, if that’s OK with Debs of course!
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