Hiking from Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo
This excellent report and guide courtesy of Martin L :
Madeira is famous for its many levada walks and for most visitors, a levada walk will be on their schedule. Walking the levadas is a good way of experiencing some of the beautiful open countryside on offer but if you want to experience a more rugged mountain walk then you should try the route from Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo.
If you have access to a car then it is easy to get to the start point at Pico do Arieiro. From Funchal you take the road for Monte and continue uphill past Monte watching out for the sign for Pico do Arieiro. It is about a half hour drive from Monte and the sign posting is good (if you pay attention). Without access to a car you will need a taxi.
If you are going to attempt this walk you need to be reasonably fit. For example it is not suitable for anyone with mobility difficulties, vertigo, or heart /respiratory problems. The path is well defined and has been brought up to a good standard over the past few years but this can lull you into a false sense of security. You will need good sturdy footwear, a picnic, plenty to drink, sun protection, a waterproof jacket and be prepared for a full day out.
Although you are in the warm climate of Madeira, the weather can be changeable on this mountain range. You can experience restricted visibility due to low cloud, stronger winds, the occasional rain fall and a drop in temperature. Outside the main summer season you also need to remember that it gets dark earlier. The round trip from Arieiro to Ruivo allowing for rest breaks is around 5-7 hours depending on fitness level. You start at Arieiro which is 1817 metres above sea level, cross a plateau, descend about 300 metres and ascend to Ruivo at 1861 metres. This involves some steep ascents and descents.
On this walk you will see that fences have been constructed at the edges of the path. Do not lean on any of the fences or rely on them for support as they can give way under reasonable pressure. Some parts of the walk traverse sections where you are on a narrow path with a sheer drop of 300 metres or so on one or both sides.
Most mountain accidents are as a result of tripping. Therefore when walking pay attention to your feet. If you want to take in the view stand still and be safe.
Starting at the café at Pico do Arieiro, follow the obvious path across the plateau. After about 15-20 minutes there is an excellent view point from where you can see Ruivo in the distance.
From here you re join the main path and gradually descend from Arieiro to join Pico dos Torres. The path is sign posted at a junction taking you to the right. If you take the path to the left you follow a vertiginous route over some precarious sections and if you are not an experienced mountain traveller, this could make you nervous. If you are an experienced mountain traveller then you can follow the right hand route going out and on the return journey pick up the start of the alternative route at a tunnel just after you have descended from Ruivo and it will you bring back to this junction.. So, for the moment we go right.
You now follow an easy section which gradually gets steeper as you head up and around Dos Torres and there is a good picnic spot on this path just at the point where it circumnavigates just below the peak of Dos Torres.
From here you might be able to see Pico Do Ruivo ahead of you and it is a well defined path all the way. As you get nearer to Ruivo you will pass Casa de Abrigo do Ruivo (Pico Ruivo’s Hut) which is a large stone house with some outside seating and offers a resting point before the final steep ascent to Ruivo.
The summit of Pico Ruivo used to be a genuine mountain summit, rugged and exposed and you had to do your best to find a seat on the rocks to get your breath back before the return journey. It has now been ruined by the installation of wooden decking, but nevertheless, the views are magnificent.
If you are fit and have time (this adds an extra hour and a half to the total journey time of 5-7 hours) on the way back you can descend to just past Pico Ruivo’s hut and pick up the path for Achada Do Teixeira. This is a well defined route and takes in the extra peak while you are already in the vicinity, but your return journey is the same route back to the main path just below Pico Ruivo’s Hut.
If you choose not to do this follow the main path for your return to Arieiro, but experienced mountain walkers can watch for the right turn into a tunnel as you are descending from Pico Ruivo’s Hut. This is a short but more dangerous way back to Arieiro. The rest of you play safe and return by the well defined path that you took on the outward journey.
Remember, you are in a mountain range so be prepared. Pay attention to your feet, standstill to look at the view, do not lean on the fences, pace yourself, relax and enjoy the fabulous rugged scenery.
Excellent, thanks so much Martin for sharing and the considerable effort put in. Excellent photos too.
