Hiking from Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo
This excellent report and guide courtesy of Martin L :
Madeira is famous for its many levada walks and for most visitors, a levada walk will be on their schedule. Walking the levadas is a good way of experiencing some of the beautiful open countryside on offer but if you want to experience a more rugged mountain walk then you should try the route from Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo.
If you have access to a car then it is easy to get to the start point at Pico do Arieiro. From Funchal you take the road for Monte and continue uphill past Monte watching out for the sign for Pico do Arieiro. It is about a half hour drive from Monte and the sign posting is good (if you pay attention). Without access to a car you will need a taxi.
If you are going to attempt this walk you need to be reasonably fit. For example it is not suitable for anyone with mobility difficulties, vertigo, or heart /respiratory problems. The path is well defined and has been brought up to a good standard over the past few years but this can lull you into a false sense of security. You will need good sturdy footwear, a picnic, plenty to drink, sun protection, a waterproof jacket and be prepared for a full day out.
Although you are in the warm climate of Madeira, the weather can be changeable on this mountain range. You can experience restricted visibility due to low cloud, stronger winds, the occasional rain fall and a drop in temperature. Outside the main summer season you also need to remember that it gets dark earlier. The round trip from Arieiro to Ruivo allowing for rest breaks is around 5-7 hours depending on fitness level. You start at Arieiro which is 1817 metres above sea level, cross a plateau, descend about 300 metres and ascend to Ruivo at 1861 metres. This involves some steep ascents and descents.
On this walk you will see that fences have been constructed at the edges of the path. Do not lean on any of the fences or rely on them for support as they can give way under reasonable pressure. Some parts of the walk traverse sections where you are on a narrow path with a sheer drop of 300 metres or so on one or both sides.
Most mountain accidents are as a result of tripping. Therefore when walking pay attention to your feet. If you want to take in the view stand still and be safe.
Starting at the café at Pico do Arieiro, follow the obvious path across the plateau. After about 15-20 minutes there is an excellent view point from where you can see Ruivo in the distance.
From here you re join the main path and gradually descend from Arieiro to join Pico dos Torres. The path is sign posted at a junction taking you to the right. If you take the path to the left you follow a vertiginous route over some precarious sections and if you are not an experienced mountain traveller, this could make you nervous. If you are an experienced mountain traveller then you can follow the right hand route going out and on the return journey pick up the start of the alternative route at a tunnel just after you have descended from Ruivo and it will you bring back to this junction.. So, for the moment we go right.
You now follow an easy section which gradually gets steeper as you head up and around Dos Torres and there is a good picnic spot on this path just at the point where it circumnavigates just below the peak of Dos Torres.
From here you might be able to see Pico Do Ruivo ahead of you and it is a well defined path all the way. As you get nearer to Ruivo you will pass Casa de Abrigo do Ruivo (Pico Ruivo’s Hut) which is a large stone house with some outside seating and offers a resting point before the final steep ascent to Ruivo.
The summit of Pico Ruivo used to be a genuine mountain summit, rugged and exposed and you had to do your best to find a seat on the rocks to get your breath back before the return journey. It has now been ruined by the installation of wooden decking, but nevertheless, the views are magnificent.
If you are fit and have time (this adds an extra hour and a half to the total journey time of 5-7 hours) on the way back you can descend to just past Pico Ruivo’s hut and pick up the path for Achada Do Teixeira. This is a well defined route and takes in the extra peak while you are already in the vicinity, but your return journey is the same route back to the main path just below Pico Ruivo’s Hut.
If you choose not to do this follow the main path for your return to Arieiro, but experienced mountain walkers can watch for the right turn into a tunnel as you are descending from Pico Ruivo’s Hut. This is a short but more dangerous way back to Arieiro. The rest of you play safe and return by the well defined path that you took on the outward journey.
Remember, you are in a mountain range so be prepared. Pay attention to your feet, standstill to look at the view, do not lean on the fences, pace yourself, relax and enjoy the fabulous rugged scenery.
Excellent, thanks so much Martin for sharing and the considerable effort put in. Excellent photos too.
Martin and I had a debate on whether it should be ‘Pico D’Areeiro’ or ‘Pico do Arieiro’.
My blog, I won …
1Lol it should be spelt ‘Pico do Areeiro’
2I know that even the Diário calls it Areeiro, but I don’t know why there is so much variation?
DON’T FORGET : The beautiful photos above are just ‘thumbnails’. If you click on the actual images you will get the photo full size.
3One suggestion re Tobi’s parking at airport would be to site a machinre at lift and stairs areas, as everyone passes by these areas, and would hopefully notice it.
4Hi All,
A couple of years ago we were invited to a party at a “hotel” high up above Santana by some Madeirenes friends that spoke no English (at that time we spoke NO Potuguese). It was late May or early June and the weather was diabolical with heavy winds and rain, we saw no end of accidents along the Via Rapida on the way. Anyway we had been warned that we would be expected to stay overnight and to come prepared for this. So we duly set out in convoy with a couple of other cars from out meeting point just outside Ribeira Brava complete with an overnight bag containing nightie, washbag and hairdrier etc. We had a couple of bar stops on the way up from the main road during which I noticed that I was on the receiving end of a few odd looks from our companions but didn’t think too much of it. It was only when we reached a huge plateau and the other 2 cars were unloaded of Potatos, cooking pots and sleeping bags and we were told that we should take a “short” walk to see the views that we realised that all might not be as we had thought but off we set. Everytime I asked did we have much further to go, I was told, no no it is just along here. Here, was a very narrow slippery mountain path with a vast drop to the right, it was raining heavily and extremely windy, add to that that I am terrified of heights, well as you can imagine I was not happy. Anyway, after 1.5 hours of trudging along wet and numb we finally reached our destination, the Pico Ruivo walkers hostel.
5When we finally fell through the doors we were not the only ones that were shocked by what we saw. For us it was that there were a couple of dozen of our Madeirenses friends cooking chicken on an open fire (which offered the only light) and drinking red wine & whiskey etc. They looked at us and exclaimed, Elaine & John, why did it take you so long? It was only when we practically collapsed on the floor and took in my attire that they realised and fell about in raptures of laughter. There I was dressed in my best trousers and blouse, high heeled shoes, make-up streaked all over my face and best hairdo washed out and generally looking like a drowned rat! John at least had the sense to wear jeans and a jacket. Well, anyway we were shown to what was going to be our room for the night which contained 2 single beds 1 of which we had to share because we were sharing the room with someone else and I was able to towel dry my hair (there was of course no electricity) and wrap up in the one blanket (no sheets), Our friends provided me with some comfortable chinela’s and I was then able to dry out in front of the blazing fire. Although everyone was either chatting amongst themselves or playing cards it was needless to say that I was the main source of entertainment for the evening.
All in all it turned out to be an excellent night with a banquet of chicken, potatos and salad, and of course plenty of alcohol. Next morning I had to face that dreaded journey back to the car but at least by then the sun was shining and the wind had died down. It was only after our return to the starting point the we saw a sinboard that gave instruction that proper walking footwear and clothing were needed and that in the event of wind and rain we should take shelter and wait for help to be rescued!
Luckily we came to no harm on that occasion but we now make sure we understand exactly what is going on and where so that we are prepared. We have also made a lot more effort to learn to speak and understand the Portuguese language.
Elaine’s story reminded me of a climb a group of us did up Ben Nevis in Scotland about 5 years ago. We were fully kitted out with food, drinks, compass, GPS, in fact you name it and the group had it. As we were climbing the lower slopes we passed an elderly gentleman who was also heading up the hill. we had a brief chat with him and noticed he was dressed in light tropical trousers, open toed sandals, sports blazer and white panama hat. He did not have a rucksack and wasn’t carrying any food or drink. He said he was just out for a stroll and we bid him farewell. Our group reached the summit after negotiating a covering of 6 inches of snow on the final 1000 feet and we were seated enjoying our sandwiches and hot coffee. The wind was cold, it was sunny, but minus 5 and by this time we were fully dressed in windproof over trousers, anoraks, insulated hats etc.
6We then saw this solitary figure in a panama hat come over the ridge and walk slowly towards. We were stunned to see the old gentleman in good spirits walking across to greet us. He seemed none the worse for his climb. We laughed and joked and shared our hot coffee and sandwiches with him. I asked him if he didn’t think he was taking a big risk coming up Britain’s highest mountain so scantily dressed and unprepared. In fact was he aware he could have died from hypothermia?
‘Ach son’, he replied ‘I’m 84 and survived worse than this.’ He then left us and started his descent but we did the decent thing and left shortly after him, and kept a wary eye on him from a distance until he at least got back to a lower safer level.
I hope I can be like that at 84!
Excellent article, we haven’t done that walk yet. Nice to see the photos too.
7Fantastic Elaine – when we first moved here five years without a word of Portuguese, we would have followed our neighbours anywhere … particularly to “part of the party”! Your story should be in a book ….. well done to you and your husband.
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